Clothing and Jewelry

Clothing and jewelry have always been an expression of social status and wealth. They reflect changing ideas about beauty and value. Jewelry also demonstrates technological knowledge and skill. We learn about medieval costume from surviving monuments, such as miniatures, murals, and archaeological finds.

Members of the aristocracy wore luxurious clothes made of silk, red leather, and other fine materials. These were imported from Byzantine markets or acquired through taxes or gifts. Ordinary people dressed much more simply, in linen, wool, and leather. Bulgarians typically wore sheepskin coats and lambskins, with a hat (kalpak) on their heads. Men wore belted shirts at the waist and tight trousers. From the 59th response of Pope Nicholas I to the Questions of the Bulgarians, we learn that women, like men, wore "trousers." This garment appeared in two forms—wide sirwals or narrow trousers suitable for riding. The traditional women's costume featured an ankle-length shirt with embroidery around the neck and narrow sleeves. Medieval ladies wore long tunics (called dalmatic) made of expensive, gold-woven fabrics and richly decorated with various motifs. Over the dalmatic, they wore mantles and cloaks, also adorned with colored stones and embroidery.

Jewelry was also an essential part of clothing, adorning the head, neck, and arms.

After the 7th century, fibulae (brooches) became rare in Bulgaria. The most common medieval jewelry included earrings and temple pendants—larger ornaments resembling earrings, worn attached to scarves or hair. Women sometimes adorned their foreheads with headdresses made of metal plates, often decorated with colored stones set on ribbons. Veils in various shapes and materials were fashionable, as were hats paired with thin, flowing scarves.

Torques and necklaces adorned the neck, featuring multicolored glass or metal beads and various pendants. Buttons were also sewn onto clothing.

After the conversion to Christianity in the 9th century, people wore crosses on chains around the neck instead of amulets. Some crosses had compartments that held the relics of saints. Through images of Jesus Christ, the Virgin Mary, or individual saints, people sought protection, personal patronage, and support for their endeavors.

Over time, jewelry became heavier and more intricate to craft.